A Beginner’s Guide to Quilt Binding Update 05/2022

It was all yours! You finished your lovely quilt and can see the end of the tunnel. The final step in your project is quilt edging.

So, what’s the best way to hide your flaws?

Get ready for…quilt binding.

In fact, binding a quilt is one of my favorite tasks.

It’s one of my favorite steps, and it’s not nearly as difficult or terrifying as some might suggest.

What is Quilt Binding?

Quilt binding is a folded strip of cloth used to cover and bind the quilt’s fraying edges.

I’ll show you how to entirely stitch a quilt bound with your sewing machine in this quilt binding tutorial. Many quilters prefer to hand-stitch the binding, but I prefer to use my sewing machine.

When compared to hand stitching, there are several advantages to using a sewing machine:

  • Sewing machines are far faster than human hands at stitching.
  • The stitching will appear regular and crisp as long as you go slowly. It’s not a race, but when you’re so close to the finish line, it feels like one.
  • hes, you can be as creative as you like while binding a quilt. Simply ensure that the stitch you chose will hold your binding in place.
  • Your sutures will be less prone to come undone over time, so you may be more confident in them.

Supplies You Will Need For Quilt Binding

Are you ready to go? To bind your quilt, gather the following items:

  • Quilt sandwich trimmed of excess batting and backing fabric
  • The binding fabric is
  • Rotary cutter or scissors for cutting mat
  • Ruler
  • a marker that is water soluble (optional)
  • ironing board and iron
  • Best Clear starch spray should be pressed (optional)
  • Pins or clips are used to hold things together (optional)
  • Machine to sew
  • Thread
  • Step-by-Step Instructions for Binding a Quilt
  • Cut your binding cloth first.

How To Bind a Quilt: A Step by Step Tutorial

Step 1: Cut the fabric for your binding.

I’ll show you how to cut fabric against the grain in this tutorial. You’ll cut your cloth widthwise, from selvage to selvage. This is how you cut your binding in most quilt patterns and kits.

You’ll need to measure the perimeter (all four sides) of your quilt to determine how much binding fabric you’ll need. To make sure I have enough fabric, I add extra 10″ to this measurement. The total perimeter of my quilt top (60″ x 62″) is 244. I’ll round up to 254″ by adding ten inches.

  • 2 12″ Width of binding before ironing = perimeter + 10″ (Depending on your preferences, you can make it larger or smaller.) Remember to iron the strips in half. 2 12″ binding appeals to me the most.)
  • Cut your strips by dividing your total length of binding by the width of your fabric. The majority of quilting cotton will be between 40 and 44 inches wide. Round up if your number has a lot of decimals. Mine is 40″ broad, for example. I get 6.35 when I divide 254 by 40. 6 12″ strips were cut

Make a straight edge by folding your fabric in half widthwise. Now, align your ruler to the required width and cut, being careful not to let the ruler slip. If you’re using scissors, use a water soluble marker to draw a line on the fabric before cutting. Make as many strips as you need.

Step 2: Sew strips together and iron.

Lay one horizontally, right side up, out of the two strips you have. Place the other strip on top of the other strip vertically, right side down. You’ll be facing each other on your right sides. Square up your edges.

Line up the bottom left corner with the top right corner using your ruler as a straight edge. With your water soluble marker, draw a line around that margin. Stitch down that line and trim to a 14″ seam allowance. This procedure should be repeated until all of your strips are sewed together.

We’re stitching them diagonally so there are fewer layers to thread through when we attach the binding to the quilt. Those seams will appear to be much less thick.

Now iron the seams you just sewed open on your lengthy strip. This will also assist to keep the seam from becoming too bulky.

Begin folding your strip in half starting at one end. Make certain that the seams are on the inside of the fold. Start ironing that fold down. At this point, I prefer to use Best Press spray to obtain a tight crease in the cloth and make the binding perfectly flat. Iron the entire strip till you’re left with about 4″ at the end.

Fold the end of the strip that hasn’t been ironed yet inside the strip by about 14 inches. Iron the remaining strip until the 14-inch fold is inside the binding. This will ensure that no raw edges are visible.

Step 3: Attaching the binding to the top of the quilt.

Line up the raw edge of your binding with the raw edge of your quilt on the end with the folded edge. To ensure that I have enough room to work with my corners, I like to start approximately midway down one of the quilt’s sides.

Begin sewing about 3″ down from the folded edge with a 14″ seam allowance. Take your time since you want your stitches to be as straight as possible. If you choose, you can pin or clip the binding to the quilt top. I prefer not to use pins, therefore I won’t be using them here, but if it makes things easier for you, go ahead and pin!

To avoid any bumps or puckers in your binding, keep it taut. Slow down while you’re approaching a corner. The following procedures are critical for achieving a good, clean mitered corner.

How to Bind a Quilt with Mitered Corners

Stop stitching when you’re 14″ from the quilt top’s corner edge. Use the needle down feature on your sewing machine if it has one. As you pivot your quilt, it will be held in place. Don’t worry if your machine doesn’t have this capability; you can still accomplish it, but you’ll have to go slowly and avoid shifting the quilt top under your needle.

Lift your presser foot and pivot your quilt top 45 degrees once you’ve stopped stitching 14″ from the edge. Continue stitching until you reach the corner, then backstitch a few threads. This will ensure that you have a firm grip on the corner. Remove your thread.

Pivot the quilt top once more so you can begin quilting the next edge. Fold the binding back 45 degrees against the diagonal line you just stitched. This step makes your quilt top’s mitered corner.

Fold the binding back down and line up the raw edges of the binding to the raw edges of the quilt. Now begin stitching right at the edge, and be sure to backstitch to make sure these first few stitches hold. This is your first of four corners!

Stick to these instructions and stitch down the rest of your binding till you’re around 3″ from where you laid the folded edge of your strip’s starting.

As you can see, there is some surplus binding material, so you’ll need to cut it at an angle. We’ll tuck that into the pocket we made when we first started attaching the binding.

Make sure all of the raw edges are aligned, then continue stitching carefully until you reach the first stitches you made. Backstitch and prepare to sew the binding on the quilt’s back!

Step 4: Attach the binding to the back of the quilt.

Fold the binding to the back of the quilt when you flip it over. Begin stitching as previously, slowly and carefully. Attempt to stitch as near to the binding’s edge as possible.

Keep in mind that these stitches will also be visible on the top of your quilt when trying to keep them straight. Use invisible thread in your bobbin to make the stitching on your quilt top practically invisible.

Stop stitching about 4″ away from the edge when you come near to a corner. Fold the binding over the corner on that edge first, then the opposite edge.

Continue sewing slowly until your needle pierces both corner pieces.

Pivot the quilt so you can start stitching on the other side.

To finish attaching your binding, follow these steps. Remember to backstitch at the end to keep your stitches in place.

You succeeded! I hope this article has demonstrated that binding isn’t a chore, but rather a pleasant and elegant last step in quilting. Take pleasure in your magnificent creation.

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